I’ve been visiting Bangkok regularly since the late 90’s. Whether it was for business or leisure, Bangkok always conjures
up images of shopping, eating, street food, inexpensive local snacks and night
markets.
For me – it was more than that. It was
images of mercenary and dishonest taxi drivers.
Taxi drivers who demand fares at least four times the metered fare. Taxi drivers who claim they do not have
change.
My latest trip last week, I noticed: many
things have changed, and some things never change.
Bangkok is getting more and more prosperous. And expensive. Gleaming skyscraper malls and offices
buildings outshine those in Singapore. Banks are bolder and doing a roaring
trade. Modern eateries and restaurant
chains give traditional Thai food a new twist.
The hormuk I used to love do not look nor taste like hormuk. Desserts are served in unusual
receptacles. The lunch time crowd in
these stores are filled with loud, young, trendy executives. (whatever happened to soft spoken, gentle
Thai folks?)
At the airport, all Thai snacks look the
same – same packaging, same food, same variety.
Same, same, even the price, which is ridiculously expensive. But different – they were sold at
‘’different’’ souvenir shops, which all look like they belong to the same clan
or cartel anyway.
Other differences: The airport and the
malls are swarming with mainland Chinese.
(In fact, Naraya, the store I used to frequent to get cute, inexpensive
fabric gifts, are packed with mainland Chinese who mobbed the store like there
was no tomorrow.) At the airport, I used
to be spoken to in Thai (given my tan).
These days, they speak to me in Mandarin. The Chinese are ruling the world.
And the Africans are making their presence
felt. The hotel at I stayed was full of
them – monopolising the receptionists and not understanding anything the
receptionist tried to explain, including check out time, payment,
reservation...
Sometimes amidst all the differences, one
looks for the familiarity for consolation.
Not so in my case, when the only familiarity is about mercenary taxi
drivers.
After dinner at CentralWorld, I tried to
take a cab back to the hotel. All the
cabs lined outside the mall demanded a flat 150 baht for a 10 minute ride round
the corner. I tried to get them to use
the metre, or to reduce the price, but they would not budge, but smirked
instead. ‘’I have to pay parking here,’’
they lied.
Disgusted, I walked to a nearby hotel
hoping the bellboy would help hail a cab.
There was a group before me, and many cabs dropped in and went
away. They all demanded 200 baht,
despite the intervention of the bellboy.
The cab drivers here all have ‘’the same face’’, he explained. Finally he managed to get one who would take
the group for 120 baht.
Next came my turn. The driver who came by agreed to go by the
metre, said the bellboy. I hopped into
the car thinking it was too good to be true.
And I was right. My ex dean used
to say, ‘’if something is too good to be true, then it is too good to be
true!’’. After driving off the hotel
porch, the driver switched off his metre and said, ‘’200 baht’’. I told him to switch the metre on, and he
said, ‘’150 baht’’. I barked, ‘’STOP; I
get off NOW.’’ And he switched his metre
back on.
After that I almost regretted being so
aggressive. What if he drove me to some
deserted place and dumped me off?
Working for my current company has made me rather paranoid.
Well, he did not, and delivered me safely
back to my hotel.
Back in my hotel, I decided Bangkok is no longer the fun, shopping and food paradise
it used to be. True, I’ve had great
memories of hanging out with friends and colleagues there, and true, I’ve been
there on gleeful shopping spree.
But that was the Bangkok
I knew. The Bangkok
I know today is the city I would grudgingly go for a night on a hurried
business trip to meet and handle my scheming colleagues.